The occasion was my youngest daughter's 22nd birthday, the venue...The Curlew Restaurant at Bodiam. I've eaten there before and it's impressive. Michelin Starred - impressive and well deserved. What's also remarkable is the amazing customer service. I don't just mean the waitresses (who are very good!) or the Restaurant Manager (charming!) but it's the interaction I've had with the owner, Mark.
After my last visit I was so impressed by the main course that I'd had - the infamous 'Chop & Chips' (Jacobs Ladder cut of beef - short ribs) and would love to have known how to cook this at home. So I cheekily emailed Mark to ask if the chef were willing to share a few secrets. I did not expect a reply (other similar requests to other restaurateurs in the past have been ignored!). I was delighted to receive a personal, comprehensive explanation of the cooking methods involved (sous-vide) and, incredibly, a wonderful explanation of how to re-create this particular science in a domestic kitchen! As a 'food scientist' I absolutely soaked up this knowledge but, regrettably, could not convince my husband that it was a good (safe) idea to cook meat on the hob for 72 hours without risk of setting the house on fire! I will have to wait until domestic sous vide machines become more affordable. (It's on my wish list!)
It was as a result of this wonderful rapport and generosity that I decided that there was no better place to treat my daughter for her birthday dinner. She's a competent Sous Chef with a particular talent for cakes and patisserie. Mark also offered an opportunity for her to tour the kitchen and meet the Head Chef. Wow!
So there we were - Husband (Nigel), eldest daughter, Vicky on the right, youngest daughter, Jo (birthday girl) on the left and myself. On entering the restaurant it was pleasing to see a young family with three little girls thoroughly enjoying their meal (also a birthday celebration for one of the girls as was evident by the way in which the dessert was presented with a candle and chorus of 'Happy Birthday'. Lovely!
We started with apero's - Peach Bellini (Vic), Pear & Apple Bellini (Jo), White Wine (Me), H2O (Nigel - driving!). Delicious home-made, warm bread was offered. OMG! I thought Vicky had died and gone to heaven!
The menu was interesting with a good range of seasonal choices. Some of the descriptions were a little bizarre, often the case in restaurants like this. Sometimes that can be a little irritating because you can't quite work out what it is, other times it's a fantastic surprise when it's served up. Overall we were delighted with what we'd chosen and pleasantly surprised (especially with the 'dehydrated milk' offered with Jo's dessert. Who would have thought that could be appetising?
So our starters were.....
Nigel -
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Rock Salt Beetroot, Crispy Veal Tongue, Mustard Cress
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Jo -
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Pressed Goose Leg, Liver, Chutney, Toast
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Lovely presentation & very tasty!
Me -
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Sussex Farmhouse Double Baked Cheese Soufflé - the lightest, tastiest, cheesiest, soufflé ever!
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Vicky -
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Warm Smoked Salmon, Barley, Watercress, Goats Curd
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She'd expected thin slices of smoked salmon and was raving about the gorgeous juiciness of this!
The starters were impressive. The technical skill behind creating my cheese souffle was awesome - so light and fluffy and cheesy. The blend of flavours and textures with all the starters was fantastic - I know - I had to taste them all!
On to the mains....
Me - I would have chosen the Chop 'n' Chips as I loved it so much last time but, having been inspired by the Beef Cheeks on the menu last time and having cooked them myself and been impressed I thought I'd try the Pork Cheeks - I was not disappointed! A 'fogotten cut' that is getting a well deserved revival.
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Slow braised Pork Cheeks, Cauliflower, Raisins, PX Sherry - melt in the mouth gorgeous!
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Jo -
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Chop n Chips - Jacobs Ladder, Beef Dripping Potatoes, Pickled Cabbage - just AMAZING!
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Everytime I look at this I start to dribble! Sous vide cooking a it's absolute best! I would defend this method to the hilt and, indeed, did do so in France at New Year to some sceptical souls who could not get their heads around 'cooking in a plastic bag'!
Nigel & Vicky -
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Grilled Mallard Breast, Cranberry, Orange, Chicory, Marmalade Potatoes
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Tasty and succulent. Vicky found a little piece of lead shot - SHE would wouldn't she! Jo just said "Did you expect the duck to just walk in to the restaurant then?!" Ha ha! You don't get that with supermarket meat do you?!
Jo just can't get enough of that rib!
Happy Birthday to you!
Jo -
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Nutmeg Parfait, Expresso Sorbet (Delicious!) and Dehydrated Milk (sounds weird but is like a thin, crispy sheet of rice paper) Beautifully decorated plate!
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For some reason, the photo of Nigel's dessert - Tutti Frutti Clafouti with Brandy Ice Cream did not come out but the memory remains in my senses - wickedly rich and velvety.
All washed down with a very nice bottle of red from the extensive wine list.
After all that Jo and I were invited in to the kitchen to meet the Head Chef, Neil McCue. What a charming, interesting man. Dedicated to providing wonderful food. I don't underestimate the pressure involved - the skill, the timing, the sheer professionalism.
Thank you to everyone at The Curlew for making it such a memorable evening.
looks stunning, now thats what i call serious cooking.
Posted by: Alan Skinner | 26/01/2012 at 23:06
Did Vicki really get through all that meat or did Freddie do well out of it!!
We went to the Curlew a couple of times before we moved - must have changed hands because it was good but your meal looked sensational. Want to try pork cheeks so if you get a recipe let me know as I think I could get them here - some organic pigs locally!
Posted by: Fiona | 27/01/2012 at 16:50
Jo had the rib of beef and we all had a taste of it. Absolutely to die for! Freddie did not get a look in (bones make him sick). Have posted a Beef Cheek recipe on FB for you but will also hunt down a Pork Cheek one. Can't wait to get a sous vide machine - my business can pay for it!!!
Posted by: Patricia | 27/01/2012 at 17:19
Alan - it was serious! Made me feel quite inadequate!!
Posted by: Patricia | 27/01/2012 at 17:20